Friday, October 19th, 2007

4 Bridges – Paris

four bridges 755249 4 Bridges   Paris

This photo was taken during a trip on the Seine on a boat. The circumstances were about the worst you could imagine for photography. Four hundred people jammed into a boat which was enclosed mostly by glass and steaming into the sun on a very smoggy Paris afternoon. Great.. the temptation was to put the camera away and start drinking – the effort of trying to take any photo at all was almost too much. My only clear view was out the side of the boat, past a very active four year old and her long suffering mother. It wasn’t my ideal “boat ride for taking photos”, but it came included in the Paris Pass and who knew it would be this horrible?

Like the intrepid photographer I am, however, I persisted and I did get some usable photos, albeit ones that required a bit of help. Like this one taken out the front of the boat through about half an inch of scratched Perspex.

It is a view through four of the wonderful Paris bridges that we sailed through. The photo needed a lot of work. I gave the sky a miss – it just wasn’t there and, in the final analysis, I think the image is all the better for it not even being there. The biggest challenge was to extract some of the usable color and detail from the original image. It was autumn in Paris so there were hints of golden trees in the image which deserved to be brought out and the bridges were what it was all about. The mere fact that you could see all four bridges was spectacular.

I started the work by straightening the image – I find I can’t work on an image until I have it straight, it just bothers my eye when it’s out of square. To do this, I use the Photoshop Ruler tool to draw a line along the horizon or a vertical object that needs to be perpendicular. Then I choose Image, Rotate Canvas, Arbitrary. The exact angle from the Ruler is already there so all you have to do is click Ok. It’s simple and effective. For this image I used the top of the bridge as a ‘horizon’.

A few tricks with Levels and curves and the image gave up its magic and turned into what you see here. It’s one of my favourite shots – so far.

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Brighton Pier

Brighton pier bandw 740947 Brighton Pier

Oh wow. I had all these photos of Brighton Pier. It was raining cats and dogs when I got there so I had to shoot everything with water dripping down my neck and trying desparately to keep water off the camera.

I though I’d probably lost out on good shots. Not so! A little fix here and there and I have some great results. I love this Caution, No Entry one. I had to adjust this image twice, once to bring in the pier and water/buildings detail and a second time to get the reflections in the timber pier flooring. I used a mask to bring in the bits I wanted to use. You wouldn’t believe what I started with and how far it came, so – just in case you’re interested, here’s a preview of the starting image:

yikes 721181 Brighton Pier

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Shopping for books by the Seine – No 2

shopping for books 701318 Shopping for books by the Seine   No 2

I took yesterday’s image and decided I wanted to look at it another way. So, I cropped it horizontally this time and worked a lot with the colors. I wanted not only to crisp it up but to punch some of the colors.

I’m working on some notes from Dan Margulis from Photoshop World in Las Vegas – his 5 minutes to a picture postcard class.

One of the great tricks I learned there is using the Luminosity channel to add punch to a photo. The idea is to duplicate the main layer in the image and then select this duplicate layer. Then use the Apply Image command. It’s a command most people don’t use because it’s so damn obscure but I’ve used it quite a bit before and I love it. Here you apply a channel such as the Red, Green or Blue to the image but, after you’ve done this, instead of accepting the default blend mode in the Layers palette – which is Normal and which makes the image Greyscale, you use the Luminosity blend mode to take the contrast but drop the color.

It’s a great tool – it’s only one of Dan’s tricks but it is fun to play with. Use the Green channel for portraits and the red channel for skies.

I did a lot to this image to try and recover and enhance the color. I started out by balancing the color to remove the cast. Then used a range of tools including curves and apply image to try to punch up the color.

I quite like the result.

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Paris – by the Seine

paris sunday afternoon 723828 Paris   by the Seine

There are beautiful little boxes all along the Seine where they sell books and manuscripts and old post cards. A sunny Autumn afternoon is just the place to stroll and find some “must have” item.

This photo underwent radical surgery. It is two photos blended together using Photoshop CS3′s new Auto Align layers and Auto blend layers tools. To do this, add one image’s background layer to the other. Select both layers and you’ll find the commands on the Edit menu. I did Auto align first. You might want to experiment with which layer you use as your topmost layer as the results differ. Then I did Auto Blend which makes a mask on each layer to bring in the bits it thinks you want from each layer. Remember you can click a mask to select it and then paint with white or black as required to reveal or hide detail on that layer – I did this as I wanted the guy in the image but needed to remove the other people who were in the originals.

Then I made a composite merged layer with my fave command CONTROL + ALT + SHIFT + E (Command + Option + Shift + E on the Mac). This gave me an image to work on the colors with. I’ll talk more about how to do that in another post.

Finally, to bring the attention to the bottom of the image (rather than the top), I created yet another merged layer, duplicated this and blurred the topmost layer. On the top layer I added a mask and a gradient fill using the Foreground to Background gradient. This resulted in the top of the image being nicely blurred and leaving the bottom in focus. I also picked out the tree and added it to the mask so it would be more in focus as it’s in the front of the image.

Finally, I added the small black border which defines the edge of the photo. To do this, choose Select, All and then Edit, Stroke and add a small 2 pixel black stroke around the Inside of the image. Add the white photo edge, the text and another small black border around the lot.

Sounds like a lot of work but once you’ve done it a few times it all happens pretty quickly. The worst part was the color correction as it is a bit fiddly.

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Gotta love Paris

paris jetaime 711273 Gotta love Paris

This photo captured me because of the shop’s wonderful name and the blue and red colours. It’s unexpected and funky.

The fixes included cropping it to remove excess and unwanted detail and colour correcting it to boost the colours in it. I also duplicated the final image layer, blurred the top layer then used a mask filled with a white to black gradient across the image to blur the right edge of the photo. I needed to also paint onto the mask to bring the tree back into focus.

It’s proof that even funky shots that you don’t think will amount to much can be great if you give them a chance to shine. I also love short wide crops.

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

Where did my Photoshop cursor go?

cursor 750648 Where did my Photoshop cursor go?

Ok. So this morning I went to do some work on my images from my trip and my Photoshop cursor went missing. All I had was a funky little cross hair thingie. It’s not a machine I use a lot so I thought it was just that the brush hadn’t been set correctly. Into Edit, Preferences and – well, all the brush settings look ok. So I try another brush option just in case. Same problem. Not good.

The solution is, luckily very simple. When you know how. It’s just a matter of pressing the Caps lock key. In fact, I suggest you do it right now so you know how it works. Choose a brush tip and press the Caps Lock key – voila, your cursor changes and disappears. Press it again and it comes back. That’s what happens, your Caps lock key toggles the brush tip display. So, when your brush tip goes west and you can’t see it so you have no idea how big it is or pretty much where it is, the Caps lock key is about to become your new best friend. Promise.

Wednesday, October 17th, 2007

Early morning Paris style

morning coffee copy 795214 Early morning Paris style

I’ve just returned from 10 days in Paris, London and the surprisingly wonderful Brighton.

I plan to display some of my photos as I fixed and work with them. Today, it’s two gentlemen at the cafe I stopped at for a Cafe Creme every morning in Montparnasse. This is the essence of what Paris means to me. Lazy mornings sipping great coffee. I will never again make the mistake of imagining for one minute that Starbucks has anything at all to do with good coffee!

The photo is pretty much unedited. It has been converted to black and white, straightened and cropped but that’s about it.

Wednesday, October 17th, 2007

Keep Outlook trim, taught and terrific!

To ensure your Outlook .pst file stays trim and doesn’t get bloated with old and outdated emails, configure its AutoArchive options so that older messages are automatically removed or filed away. To do this, right click the folder to archive (such as your InBox) and choose Properties, AutoArchive tab and select the Archive this folder using these settings option. Now enable the Clean out items older than and set the appropriate time period. Only select to Permanently delete old items if you really don’t want them saved. Enable, instead, Move old items to default archive folder and Click Apply.

If you haven’t got AutoArchive configured to run periodically, you’ll get a warning to this effect and Outlook will set it to 14 days by default. You can change the timing by choosing Tools, Options, Other, AutoArchive. Now, every 14 days (or when you specify), AutoArchive will run and the old items will be moved to your archive folder. Your archive file will appear in your folders list so you can drag and drop messages from it back into your regular Outlook folder if there are archived messages you need to refer to.

The reason you need to do this is two-fold. One is that Outlook stores everything in its PST file – emails, contacts, appointments and worst of all – email attachments. So the file can get very large indeed. At or near 2GB in size the file becomes unstable and you risk losing everything – permanently – can we just say “Don’t put all your eggs in one basket”? Archive now – before your computer does the deed for you – permanently and with little or no chance of recovery.

Wednesday, October 17th, 2007

10 Top Flash Photography Tips

noflash 705235 10 Top Flash Photography Tips

Your camera’s flash can be the best tool you have for lighting a shot or the best tool you have for destroying an image – it all depends on how you use it and when. In these tips I will show you how you can tame your camera’s flash and make sure that it works for you and not against you. As you read you might be surprised to learn when you should be using your flash and when you’re better advised to turn it off and take the shot without it.

Learn to control the flash
The first step to working with the flash on your camera is to learn how to configure it so you can, in an instant, turn it on or off as required. Consult your camera’s manual and learn how to read the indicators on your camera which tell you the current status of the flash. You should be able to turn the flash off so that it does not fire even in low light conditions and you should be able to enable it so that it fires even in full sun. These skills are essential for taking good photographs.

Avoiding redeye
One technique typically used to avoid redeye is to turn on the camera’s redeye reduction flash. This option fires a small flash before the full strength flash and this has the effect of shrinking the pupil size so that the redeye effect is less likely to occur. Unfortunately it also has the effect of misleading your subject into thinking that the photograph has been taken so that they feel free to move and the resulting shot is inevitably blurry.

Rather than using the redeye reduction flash I suggest you disable it and, instead, use other means to reduce redeye. To avoid the redeye issue without the using the redeye reduction flash make sure that the lights in the situation in which you are using the flash are turned up as high as they can be. With good room lighting your subject’s eyes will be less likely to be red. An externally mounted flash can also help – see tip 5 below. Of course, if all else fails you can remove the redeye effect in your digital photo software and many printers and photo services can also remove it.

Understand its limits
If you’ve ever been to a sporting event at night you will have seen people high up in the grandstands using their camera’s flash to take a photograph of the action below. This is the least effective way to capture a good photograph. Your camera’s flash has a range of about 9 feet which makes it of no use at all in a sporting situation.

Next time you’re at the game, turn off your camera’s flash and switch the camera to night mode so that it understands that more light will be needed to take the shot. Brace yourself carefully using a tripod if you have one and then take the shot without the flash. The result will be a much better photograph.

Use the fill flash
It might seem counterintuitive to use a flash when taking a photo in bright sunlight but it is one time you really need the power of your flash. Consider the situation where you have your child in front of you on the beach and a beautiful sunny beachscape behind them. If you take a photograph of the child without using the camera’s flash your child will be in deep shadow with the beach scene behind him or her perfectly exposed. On the other hand if you use the camera’s main flash or its fill flash if it has a special flash for this purpose, you’ll get both your child and the beach scene perfectly exposed. Any time you are shooting in bright sunlight where your subject is within flash range you should use your flash to light them correctly.

Another use for the fill flash is where your subject is lit very strongly from one side such as where they are standing by a sunlit window. Using the flash will even out the deep shadows on the other side of their face giving you a more evenly lit portrait.

fill 711894 10 Top Flash Photography Tips
The photo on the left is shot without the flash, on the right, the fill flash adds delicate color to the child’s face and evens out the sun’s harsh shadows.

Off camera flash
Many cameras, in particular digital SLR cameras, have the ability for you to mount an off camera flash. This flash can either be hand held or mounted to a hot shoe connector on the top of the camera. These special flash mounts raise the flash bulb a few inches above the camera and offer you the ability to angle the flash head so it doesn’t fire direct into your subject’s face.

If you are photographing indoors with a flash mounted on your camera, angle the flash so it fires off the ceiling with the result that the scene will be bathed with light. You may need to make a small adjustment to your camera to allow a little more light into the shot to compensate for not having quite as much light available as you would if the flash fires direct into your subject’s face but the resulting image will be much more flattering and you’re unlikely to encounter a problem with redeye.

flash 785254 10 Top Flash Photography Tips
The photo on the left is shot with a regular flash direct at the subject, the one on the right has the light bounced well away from the subject.

Create a silhouette
If you have a beautiful sunset in front of you and a person standing in front of it between the sunset and the camera there is a temptation to use the camera’s flash to light the person and also capture the sunset. If you plan to do this, make sure you choose a long exposure so you get plenty of the sunset in your photo as well as your subject. On the other hand you can capture an equally interesting image by turning off the flash and adjusting the exposure to -1 or -2 to slightly underexpose the image. Now capture the sunset and you will find that your subject is a dark outline silhouetted against the brighter sunset.

Instant color correction
If you are shooting indoors where fluorescent or incandescent lights are creating a color cast you can avoid the cast and color balance your image using your flash. The light from your camera’s flash is a more neutral light and free of unsightly color casts, so firing the flash indoors will light the scene with the clean flashlight and reduce the colorizing effect of the light bulbs. You don’t need to turn the lights off because the flashlight will be strong enough to neutralize them.

Flash not allowed
When you encounter a situation where you are not allowed to use flash photography but there is no ban on taking photographs then you’ll need to understand how to compensate for not having a flash. Disable the flash on your camera and try a few test shots to see if the lighting is sufficient to take the photograph. Increasing the ISO equivalency on the camera so that you are shooting with 200, 400, 800 or higher ISO will capture more light for the same shutter speed. in a dark situation. The downside of this is that you will have a more grainy photo as a result. You can also experiment with a slower shutter speed but you will need to strike a balance between speed and the likelihood of movement marring your shots. The longer the camera takes to capture the image, the more light it will capture but, in consequence, any movement will result in an unsatisfactory blur in your images.

noflash 743443 10 Top Flash Photography Tips

When you’re in the situation of not being allowed flash photography a long exposure can help you get the shot you’re after.

Diffusing the flash
The flash on a point and shoot camera can be very harsh and you might find it washes out your subjects because it is just too strong. To get a more even lighting effect, diffuse the flash by placing something in front of it. For example semi-opaque sticky tape placed over the flash will help diffuse the light as will a small sheet of wax paper held in front of it or taped over it. Another option is to hold a piece of shiny white card underneath the flash angled slightly up so that you bounce the light from the flash upwards to create a more diffused light.

Creative flash
Your flash is more than a simple lighting source and it can be used for creative purposes too. If you set your camera to a long exposure to take a night shot with the flash turned off you will capture elements like car lights as streaks on your photo. On the other hand if you use the same long exposure with a flash you can capture a subject close by with the flash and then capture the movement behind the subject with the longer exposure. If you are working with a human subject ask them to stay very still throughout the entire shot well past when the flash is fired. Alternatively if the person moves you will get an interesting ghostlike effect on your photos. Of all the tools in your camera the flash can give you some of the best creative opportunities but it will help if you spend some time experimenting with it before you need to use it in a practical situation.

ghost 785204 10 Top Flash Photography Tips
This ghostly Halloween image was created using a flash combined with a long exposure.

Used correctly, the flash on your camera can be a great addition to your photography allowing you to take beautifully lit portraits in even the harshest of light conditions and to capture interesting and creative images.

Tuesday, October 16th, 2007

OOPS! I didn’t mean to send THAT!

If you too often send an email message and then think “Oh no! I forgot to say xyz” or “Oops, I shouldn’t have been that blunt”, then build a delay into Outlook so the messages aren’t sent right away. It just might save you having to write a second email or save you grovelling to your boss!

To do this use a rule to delay sending emails. Choose Tools, Rules and Alerts and click on New Rule. Choose the Start from blank rule option and then select Check messages after sending and click Next. Click Next as all messages will be delayed (but you can set an exception shortly) and click Next and Ok again to confirm the rule will apply to all sent messages. Choose Defer delivery by a number of minutes and set this to the number to wait – say 2 minutes and click Next.

Now, set an exception for messages that just have to be sent immediately, for example, select Except if it is marked as importance and set this to High. Click Next, type a name for the rule such as Delayed Send, enable the Turn on this rule checkbox and click Finish.

Now, whenever you click Send, your messages will be held for 2 minutes before being sent except if you make them High importance.

No more grovelling!