Sunday, March 7th, 2010

Step 8 Photo-editing workflow – Fix skin tones

Often you will encounter difficulties when fixing colour problems in an image where there are significant areas of skin tones. Skin tones are more difficult to fix than general colour casts, in part because we’re all so familiar with what skin tones should look like that we ‘know’ immediately when they look wrong.

Luckily Photoshop Elements has a good tool for fixing skin tones. To apply this fix to your image choose Enhance > Adjust Color > Adjust color for skin tone. The mouse cursor will change to an eyedropper and you should use this to click on an area of skin tone in the image.

If you don’t get good results sampling from a person’s face, try sampling on their neck or arm – sometimes makeup on the face can give poor results and skin not covered in makeup gives better results.

Once you have selected the skin tone, if the fix isn’t good enough, use the Blush and Tan adjustments until you match what the skin should look like. The Ambient Light temperature slider lets you warm up or cool down the colour fix.

Helen Bradley

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

Step 7 Photo-editing workflow – Fixing colour problems

Whenever you believe that there is something wrong with your photo’s colour or tonal range a good place to start fixing it is with your software’s automatic fix options.

In Photoshop Elements choose Enhance > Auto Smart Fix and preview the result. If you do not like it choose Edit > Undo and try one or all of the Auto Levels, Auto Contrast, Auto Colour correction options under the Enhance menu.

Each of these adjusts the image in a different way and if they work on your image then they’re a simpler way of fixing it than having to do it manually.

Helen Bradley

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

Step 6 Photo-editing workflow – Fixing muddy images

Images which lack a full tonal range (a range of colors from very light/white to very dark/black), often look muddy and the colour in these images will also look flat. To adjust the tonal range of an image to darken the dark areas and lighten the light areas thus stretching the colour you have over the widest possible range.

In Photoshop Elements choose Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Levels. The levels histogram shows the tonal range of pixels in the image – ideally the chart should stretch the full width of the area it is contained in. If it doesn’t reach from the very left edge to the very right edge, drag the sliders underneath the chart inwards so that they sit under the points where the chart data begins and ends. You can adjust the middle slider to lighten or darken the midtones in the image.

Helen Bradley

Thursday, February 25th, 2010

Step 5 Photo-editing workflow – Fixing over and underexposed images

If you have an image which is under exposed or over exposed you can recover some of the detail in the light and dark areas using the Shadow/Highlight adjustment.

In Photoshop Elements choose Enhance > Adjust Lighting > Shadows/Highlights. The default setting lightens the shadows but leaves the highlights untouched but you can adjust each of these areas using the sliders to bring back into the shadow and highlight areas.

Adjust the Midtone Contrast slider if necessary to get the desired result.

Helen Bradley

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Step 4 Photo-editing workflow – Straighten

A photo where an obviously horizontal line like the horizon or the foot of a building runs at an angle instead of straight across an image is disconcerting to the eye.

To straighten a photo click the Straighten tool on the toolbar and drag a line across what should be the horizon in the image. In Photoshop Elements when you let go of the mouse, the photo will automatically be straightened using the line you have drawn.

Before you draw your line you can choose one of the options on the toolbar to configure the tool. These include choosing CropToRemoveBackground which ensures that uneven edges of the image are cropped away in the straightening process.

Helen Bradley

Friday, February 19th, 2010

Step 3 Photo-editing workflow – Crop


Use the Crop tool to focus in on your subject and remove unsightly background.

To crop an image and remove the excess, click the Crop Tool on the toolbar and click and drag the crop marquee over the image.

Adjust the edges of the marquee so they surround the portion of the image that you want to retain. Double click on the image to crop the excess away and to leave only the portion of the image that you want to keep.

Keep the rule of thirds in mind when you crop your image and, where possible, place the subject off centre for a nicer resulting image.

If your subject is moving such as a car or if it is a person who is looking to the right or the left, make sure to allow plenty of room ‘in front of them’ when you crop.

If you put a moving object too close to the edge of the image it will send your viewer’s eye off the edge of the image in the direction of the movement.

Helen Bradley

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Step 2 Photo-editing workflow – Duplicate the image


Save the image with a new name before you begin to make sure you never overwrite the original.

There is nothing worse than destroying an original image by being just a little careless. You will never do this if you don’t work on your originals.

So, before you begin any fix, open your photo in your photo editing software and save the image giving it a new file name. This ensures you do not overwrite the existing image when you save the file later on and ensures you’ll always have your original image.

To do this, choose File > Save As and give the image a new name. Check the title bar of the image window to ensure you are now working on the saved copy not the original. If not, close the original image and open the copy before continuing.

Helen Bradley

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

Step 1 photo-editing workflow – assess the image

This image needs work, it is underexposed, it has lackluster color and it is not straight.

Despite your best intentions you’ll often capture a photograph which needs some fix to improve it. If this is the case you’ll use your photo editing software to fix the problems.

When you do, there is a handy workflow that you can use that will streamline how you work and ensure that the image is processed efficiently and effectively. I’ll show you how to assess your image to determine what it needs, how to fix the image and prepare it for printing or sharing online.

I’ll illustrate the process in Photoshop Elements but the steps are the same in any photo editing program. If a step isn’t appropriate to your image, skip it and move onto the next.

Assess the problems
Before you begin, take a look at the photograph and determine what needs to be done. Check to see it is straight or if there extraneous elements that should be removed.

Check the colour in the photograph to see if there is a colour cast that needs removing. If the image is muddy or lacklustre then it may need an adjustment to increase the tonal range in the image to create darker darks and lighter lights. If the image is overly dark or too light then a shadow/highlight fix can be applied to lighten or darken it as required.

Also look to see if there are any flaws in the image. If there are electricity wires or distracting elements such as a rubbish bin that needs to be removed make a note of this.

For portraits check to see if there are any skin blemishes that need to be removed. Finally, determine what you want to use the photograph for as the final steps in the fixing process will vary according to your intended use of the photo.

Helen Bradley

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

Better Photos Tip #10 – Camera Raw vs, jpeg

Capturing in Camera RAW offers superior image adjustment options for your photos.

If your camera is capable of capturing images using the RAW format, this will allow you more editing opportunities later on.

It’s a good idea to capture JPEG when shooting regular snapshots simply because JPEGs are easier to process and use and to use RAW for more creative captures.

Some cameras have a button you can press which gives you a one shot RAW capture so you can shoot in JPEG but easily capture a single RAW shot when you need one.

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

Better Photos Tip #9 – Read the Histogram

The image histogram on your camera shows the tonal range in the image, use it to assess the quality of the image. Here there is a little too much data in the shadows (we say the shadows are plugged) and we could adjust the exposure accordingly.

To understand if you need to adjust your exposure, check the image histogram in the camera rather than relying on the image that appears in the LCD screen.

The histogram gives you a graphical representation of the image’s tonal range. If the chart data doesn’t extend from one edge of the chart to the other, you will probably have a muddy lacklustre image.

If the chart is too far to the left, you need to lighten the image and if all the data is to the right the image is being overexposed.

If you’re using a digital SLR you control the exposure by enlarging the aperture or decreasing the shutter speed to let in more light or vice versa to reduce the amount of light.

On a point and shoot camera, the exposure compensation feature lets you adjust the exposure amount to compensate for lighting issues. Typically you can adjust the exposure by any amount in the range -2.0 – +2.0 to darken or lighten the image. Exposure compensation was used here to expose this musician correctly against a very light background – I traded blown out highlights in the background for a properly exposed foreground.

Helen Bradley

Sunday, January 31st, 2010

Love is in the air


This engagement photo is casual and relaxed – it’s not a typical pose but it makes a pleasing composition.

In February, love is in the air. It’s a time that focuses on couples both new and old. When you think of photographs of couples you probably think of more formal arrangements with both people looking at the camera or at each other and holding themselves very stiff. However, couples photos don’t have to look that way. The wonderful thing about couples is that they know each other well and there is an intimacy between them that you don’t see in other relationships. If you can capture that intimacy in your camera lens then you’ll go a long way to getting some truly memorable shots.

In days gone by, photos were typically taken of couples at big occasions like an engagement and wedding. From that time onwards, photos tend to be taken as families and you probably won’t see the couple again in a photograph together without other family members until a memorable occasion such as their twenty or fifty year anniversary or their long awaited trip to Paris when they pose together, dwarfed by the Eiffel Tower behind them. Along the way we miss out on recording photographically the day to day progress of our lives. Although we take the time to note it in other ways such as celebrating anniversaries and with an eternity ring on the birth of the couple’s first child.


This couple was captured at a party – their closeness makes for a warm and charming photograph.

Choose your location
So how do you photograph a couple so you have compelling images rather than just a series of somewhat boring side by side posses? The first thing is to choose your setting. If you live in a rural area you’re blessed with a myriad of choices. A foot bridge over a river, under a tree in a field, a stile on a tow path. In the city, a local park will offer a variety of options but don’t overlook options on the street too. Shot in black and white, a table at a street café and even a cross walk offer can offer possibilities.

Dress up
Make sure your couple dress for the occasion. Avoid clothes with colours that clash with each other or that are highly patterned. If you’re shooting some casual shots in the country dressing in casual clothes will give the right feel to the shoot. If your couple is celebrating a big occasion like an engagement or anniversary or, the biggest of them all – their wedding, then it can be more formal and they will generally dress more formally. Suggest to the woman that she wear light makeup as this generally produces more even skin tones.




These photos show the warmth of a newly engaged couple – in some of them, the camera is merely a spectator.

Take your time
Allow yourself plenty of time to take the shots. Trying to capture something great in ten minutes is very difficult but with an hour to work you should get good results. Some couples are relaxed enough to be natural around the camera so they’re very easy to shoot. If the couple isn’t so relaxed, ask them to stand close to each other and then pause so you can frame a few shots before getting them to change poses and pause again for some more.

You may find that giving the couple an object to play with such as a flower will relax them as they start interacting with the object and with each other. Often when the couple are engrossed in their own play, the camera becomes a mere spectator capturing candid moments between them.

Posing tips
Don’t hesitate to ask the couple to try a pose for you if you think it might be fun or interesting. If it doesn’t work, try something else. If you think one person would look better if they hold their head up a bit or look in a different direction, suggest this to them. Remember that you’re the only one who can see potential flaws like double chins and shadows and asking for a small movement may result in a much better shot.


This candid photo was captured as the couple waited in line outside a restaurant, the woman’s arm around the man gives it a warm feeling.

One pose to try is to have one person sit with the other sitting or standing behind them and looking over their shoulder. Posing a couple on stairs can often give you just the right difference in heights to make this work very well if the couple is naturally around the same height. For a couple with very big height difference arrange them so the height difference is reduced and their heads are close together. This lets them interact with each other more easily and will give a much better shot. Options include sitting the taller partner and asking the shorter partner to stand or have one sit on the other’s lap. When positioning their heads you will get better results if one person is just a little higher that the other.


These men were so relaxed with the camera and having so much fun that it was impossible to take a bad shot.

When posing your couple, encourage them to touch each other – it might be holding hands, touching nose to nose, one might wrap their arms around the other – whatever feels natural and fun to them. As they move, follow their movements using the camera’s LCD screen (or view finder if you’re using a SLR) and look out for opportunities to take a shot. I like to vary between shooting in portrait and landscape orientation. While portrait mode lets me capture full body shots, working close up in landscape mode gives me the opportunity to capture the couple close up and exclude a lot of distracting background detail.


In my parent’s wedding photo the photographer has caught a fun and active young couple obviously very happy.

Not all couple shots you take will be taken in a prearranged manner like a photo shoot. Look out for photo opportunities when you’re around couples and when they are interacting naturally with each other. Since couples can’t generally take photos of themselves, when you take them for them, you’re helping them record a bit of their history. With luck, someday, someone will do the same for you.

Finishing touches
As with any portrait shot, always check your photo before printing. Remove any unsightly skin blemishes using the program’s healing brush.

Helen Bradley

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

Better Photos Tip #8 – Take 2 steps forward

When capturing an image, get in close to the subject so they fill your viewfinder.

If there is one technique most digital camera users can use today to instantly improve their photos it is to stand at least two or three steps closer to their subject.

Most photographers stand too far away from their subjects so the subject ends up being very small relative to the rest of the photo.

When you move closer to your subject you make them larger in the viewfinder so they fill the photograph.

The result is not only a much more interesting photo but, because the subject fills the screen, there is less distracting background detail. If you can’t get physically closer to your subject use the zoom on your camera to zoom in closer.

Helen Bradley

Sunday, January 24th, 2010

Better photos tip #7 – Don’t just look – See

When you really look at a scene you may find things to photograph you might not have noticed at first glance.

When you are looking for things to photograph, study your surroundings. There are plenty of photo opportunities even in places that look anything but photographic.

A good exercise for budding photographers is to set yourself a challenge to photograph a predetermined subject matter such as numbers, signs, a particular colour or shapes like circles or rectangles.

Go out with your camera and set yourself an hour to complete the task. When you set yourself a challenge to capture a particular subject, you have to look to find it in a larger scene.

As you do you’ll see a range of things that you may not otherwise notice.

Part of what sets a good photographer apart from a mediocre one is the ability to see the possibilities in a scene.

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Better photos tip #6 – Depth of field

This image shows a shallow depth of field – the statue is in focus but everything else is nicely blurred.

There is a benefit you get when you use the macro setting on your camera and that is that when you use it your camera generally captures the image using a very small depth of field.

Depth of field is the area in focus around and in front of and behind the subject of the image. When you have a large depth of field, everything is in focus and where the depth of field is small, only a very small portion of the image is in focus.

Shooting with a small depth of field requires some skill because you have to make sure that the subject itself is in sharp focus – so that the rest of the image is not.

Check the LCD screen or viewfinder to ensure that the subject looks crisp and in focus before shooting. When you have taken the shot, check the image and zoom in to it and make sure the subject looks sharp – the LCD screen preview at the regular size won’t show clearly enough if you have the subject sharp enough.

Depth of field will be a new concept if you’ve only used inexpensive film cameras in the past. Automatic film cameras shoot with a very wide depth of field so that everything in the photograph is in focus. In the days of film, only SLRs were capable of capturing images with a small depth of field.

Digital cameras changed that and many point and shoot cameras can capture images with smaller depths of field if you know how. The secret is in using the camera’s manual controls to set the aperture manually rather than leaving the camera to make the choice. This same option is available with digital SLRs and the results, because of the lenses you use, are generally better with a digital SLR.

For a small depth of field, adjust the aperture to a value such as f2.8 or f3.6 so it is very wide and so the camera takes in a lot of light. To get a large depth of field so everything in the image is in focus, use an aperture setting of f8 or f16 for example. This setting lets in less light so the shutter speed will be much slower than when shooting with an aperture value of f2.8 for example.

Helen Bradley

Saturday, January 16th, 2010

Better Photos Tip #5 – Use Macro

Use your camera’s macro setting to shoot flowers and other objects up close.

When you are shooting within a few inches (or centimetres) of your subject your digital camera will make a poor job of focusing on the subject unless you use its macro setting.

Macro is indicated by a small flower icon on a dial on your camera or configurable within its menu system.

The macro setting ensures the camera will focus on an object which is only a few inches or centimetres from the camera. Use this setting when shooting a close up of a flower or an insect in the outdoors or when capturing detail indoors like objects on your desk.

If you’re using a digital SLR you won’t generally find a macro setting on your camera and the lens that it came with probably won’t focus well enough to get good close up shots.

Instead, consider investing in a telephoto zoom lens with a macro setting so you not only get a good telephoto lens but it doubles as a macro lens too.

One benefit of this setup is that you can stand back from your subject and still get in very close to the subject so you don’t scare small insects.

Helen Bradley