Tuesday, January 12th, 2010

Better Photos Tip #4 – No flash at night

When taking photographs at night, turn off the flash and take a long exposure to capture the lights.

When shooting a night time concert, sporting event or even the city lights you might think your camera’s flash is a necessity. Unfortunately it’s not only next to useless at a distance of over 2-3 metres but using it will force the camera to use a faster shutter speed than you need so all you’ll get is a severely underexposed image.

Instead, disable the camera’s flash and switch the camera to night mode shooting so it will meter for the surrounding darkness and set a slow shutter speed allowing you to capture the detail in the scene.

A downside of the slow shutter speed is that any camera movement will result in the subject being severely blurred. When shooting at night without a flash, use a tripod or brace the camera so that it does not move.

On the flip side, when you take long exposures at night you can capture light trails from car headlights and taillights as they pass in front of you which can look really great.

Helen Bradley

Friday, January 8th, 2010

Better photos Tip #3 – get down low

The best photos of animals and kids happen when you get down to their level.

When you are photographing children and animals, get down to their level so you shoot from the side and not the top of their head.

This may require you to sit on the floor or to put the animal or the child on a table or bench.

If you are capturing animals that move a lot it can be helpful if you have a handler to hold the animal while you take the photograph.

A good time to photograph the family cat is when they are basking in the sun or asleep.

Helen Bradley

Monday, January 4th, 2010

Better photos Tip #2 – Hold the camera right

© Iryna Kurhan,istockphoto.com
Hold your camera in both hands as you shoot to steady it and to ensure your shot is in focus.

When you are photographing, take care to hold the camera steady so your photos won’t be blurred.

Hold your camera in both hands and position your arms close to your body with your elbows tucked in to form a solid foundation for supporting the camera.

Press the shutter release half way down and pause to let the camera’s auto focus system focus on the subject.

Then press the shutter the rest of the way down to capture the image.

If possible, hold your breath as you do this, to avoid the movement which would otherwise occur if you breathe in and out as you are taking the shot.

Helen Bradley

Friday, January 1st, 2010

Better photos Tip #1 – Rule of thirds


Place objects at the intersection of lines on an imaginary noughts and crosses board for a more interesting image.

When you are composing your photograph have in mind the principles of the rule of thirds. This rule suggests that you draw an imaginary noughts and crosses board over the photograph that you are about to capture. Where the lines intersect is a good place to position the subject of your image.

For example, if someone’s eyes are located where the lines intersect you will get a much more interesting photo than if the person is positioned dead centre of the photograph.

In addition, placing the horizon along one of the lines of the noughts and crosses board is more interesting than placing it across the middle of the photo.

Simply moving your camera a little bit to the right or left, or up or down can be the difference between a so-so image and one which looks much better.

Helen Bradley

Saturday, December 26th, 2009

Christmas festivities

This Christmas Santa gave me a wonderful Holga camera but we didn’t realize it was going to use 120 film so were were forced back to the digital world for Christmas photos. No great hardship resulted however, as I got a chance to head out the door with my trusty 50mm f/1.4 portrait lens – an ideal lens for low light photography – you simply don’t have to worry about light with this lens – it shoots fast in just about any situation. And, because it is f/1.4 it has a tiny point of focus when you shoot close up. You get photos that have a small area in focus and everything else is wonderfully blurred. You can ignore messy backgrounds – they simply don’t show up.

I totally love this lens and today, thanks to some totally wonderful food cooked by friends Mindy and Frank, I came home with wonderful presents, a stomach aching from great food and a fist full of food images to celebrate the day. The secret of the photos is to get close enough that you fill the viewfinder with the food but not so close that the lens won’t focus. Make sure the focus is exactly where you want it and go for it…

beans

ambrosia'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

cranberries

drink

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

meat

pineapple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  potatoesvegetqables

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here are Mindy and Frank’s wonderful cats..

clara

elizabeth

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, because it is Christmas, here are photos of the cool boxes we have used for years for present exchanges between houses… each time a box goes from one house to the other, for birthdays, Christmas and Hanukkah some of the papers we use to wrap are torn and glued to the box. There are 12 years of friendship and gifts celebrated with each box. There are Barbies, X-Men, Hanukkah stars and Christmas trees – there are M & M stickers and so much more in the memories the boxes contain…

boxes

boxes2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And one photo of some of the funky presents. I have to explain that the snowman makes appropriate Christmas noises and poops candy into his hat – as for the rest of the presents, most defy explanation… sorry, but you really had to be there…

gifts 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Christmas to you and yours..

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009

10 things for your camera bag

Regardless of where you are travelling to this holiday season here are my top 10 things to have in your camera bag:

  1. 3 sets of batteries – one in the camera, one in the charger and one in your pocket
  2. Battery charger and a power cable suitable for use wherever you’re travelling
  3. Spare memory stick or smart card for extra storage on the road
  4. Cooler to put the camera in if it’s hot where you are headed (leave the ice behind)
  5. Polarizing filter to suppress reflected light for more color in your images
  6. Tripod for capturing panoramas, macro shots and for longer exposures
  7. Camera manual to refer to if you have questions that you can’t resolve
  8. Lens cleaning cloths, cleaning fluid and a brush to blow dust from the lens (not your shirt tail – please!)
  9. A variety of lenses including a macro lens if your camera takes interchangeable lenses
  10. Underwater camera housing for your digital so you can take it swimming with you

Helen Bradley

Saturday, December 12th, 2009

Surprising Cambridge UK


I was lucky enough to spend a somewhat damp afternoon in Cambridge last month. The buildings were fantastic and the Christmas decorations were up which is always so colourful and fun.

I walked out through one of the colleges to the river Cam where I saw people punting along the river. It was just on dusk – around 4pm and it was totally picturesque.

Click here to see some of my images from that day.

Helen Bradley

Saturday, November 21st, 2009

Barcelona – Day Three


Today I headed to Park Guell to see some of the magnificent mosaic work there. I hadn’t thought that the curved mosaic seats would be anywhere near as big as they were and likewise I thought the lizard would be huge and he’s very small. Funny how photos never quite prepare you for the real thing.

I shopped at a market, took three busses and the metro a few times and walked around 10 miles in all. I am so bummed to be leaving here tomorrow. The hotel Casa Camper is fantastic, the city is both quirky and colourful and I’ve loved it more than I had expected. It’s also a city brimming with things to do and I could have spent a week or more quite easily.

Tomorrow it is back to London and on to Cardiff to Dr Who and Torchwood territory – look out for photos from Cardiff Bay and the Millenium Center.

Here is the link to today’s photos.

Helen Bradley

Thursday, November 19th, 2009

Barcelona – Day Two

Taking a bit of a break from Gaudi architecture (not a total break, just a bit of one), I headed to the older parts of Barcelona today to walk and enjoy the activity on the streets. Today’s images are an eccletic bunch – more graffiti, statues, houses and stuff that took my fancy.

Click here to see them.

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Barcelona – Day One


Today is my first day in Barcelona and I’ve have had my jaw dropped all day today. I imagined the buildings here would be wonderful but they exceeded even my estimation.

In the interests of showing a lot of photos and not bogging down the blog I have created a slideshow and linked them here.

Since I’ve got the system up and running, I’m hoping this will make slideshows easier to create in future – thanks Lightroom for making this a fairly transparent exercise.

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

Tell a story


If you think back to English composition lessons at school, your teacher, like mine would have told you that a story needs a beginning, a middle and an end. Photographing an event is like telling a story except that, instead of telling it in writing, you’re telling it in pictures. Like a story, your photo story needs a beginning, a middle and an end.

All too often, our photography captures the middle or end of the story and the rest isn’t photographed. If you make sure to set the scene with your photos, you’ll have everything you need to scrap an entire event.

So, when you next head out with a picnic basket in hand for an afternoon by the river, start photographing before you leave home. There are stories to be told of little Hannah who always looses her shoes, Mum making piles of sandwiches, teenager Tim who wants to take his new computer game with him, and lots of other typical family behaviours to record. When you’re at the picnic spot, take a photo of your favourite place by the river and the lunchtime spread before everyone tucks in. Later on, photograph what remains when they’re done and dad as he snores the afternoon away under a tree.

Finally, photograph everyone jammed into the car ready to head home and the mess of gear piled up in the front entry waiting to be returned to its place in the house when you’ve unpacked.

An unexpected story


These photos tell the story of Casey’s funny hairdo from beginning to end and the effect she had on bystanders.

In the photos above, Casey created her funny hairdo as we sat waiting for a graduation that was late starting. The photos have nothing to do with the event itself but it is a few minutes of laughter that none of us who were there will ever forget! The story unfolds in the photos – they show not only the hairdo she created but the action leading up to it and the reaction of those sitting close by when they saw it.

When you focus on capturing an entire story rather than just individual shots you will find you have fresh adventures to capture with your camera.

Helen Bradley

Friday, October 30th, 2009

The Color of light


The light of an oncoming storm has tinted this image and its moodiness complements the subject of the photo.

Without some form of lighting it is impossible to take a photo – a photo is, after all, a representation of the light that enters the camera and which is captured by the film or camera’s sensors. There are, however, different types of light and, when you understand something about the light that surrounds you, it will help you capture better photographs.

Perhaps the most important thing to understand about light is that it has a colour. While the light cast by the midday sun is the purest light and devoid of a colorcast, the same is not the case for early morning light or the light in shadows. Early morning sunlight throws a warm glow over a scene and the same happens in the evening as the sun sets.


This sunrise shot of gondolas on the Grand Canal in Venice has captured the unique early morning light.

This pink coloured glow is called warm light because of its warm pink orange tone and it not only gives you wonderful early morning and sunset photos but the same warm tones are extremely flattering when photographing people. In fact it is possible to buy what are called warming filters that attach to your camera and which filter the light coming into the camera to give a flattering pink cast to the image.

You can mimic this effect in most photo editing software by applying a slight orange pink colorcast to the image or, in programs such as Photoshop, using the built in photo filter tool to do this. You simply select the type of Warming Filter to apply to the image.

Not all outdoor light is warm or neutral, the light in a shaded area on a sunny day will generally be more blue so your photos might show a blue cast. However if you’re photographing in an area shaded by foliage, the colour cast will be more green because the light is being filtered through the green of the plant leaves. The unfortunate side effect of this is that photos taken in a garden setting may result in the subject showing a slightly green tone to their skin.


To help counter the lack of light in the shadows additional light has been bounced onto the subject’s face using a reflector.

Light indoors is different again. A standard light globe will throw a pink yellow light whereas fluorescent tubes throw a blue green light. Photographs of people taken in fluorescent lighting can show their skin as being washed out and unattractive because of the light’s colour. To help you balance the light that is coming into your camera it has a tool called white balance. Using this white balance tool you select the type of light that is in the location (such as tungsten or shade) and the camera will adjust the resulting image to show a more neutral tone. So, if you’re photographing in fluorescent light the camera will neutralize the blue green light to give you a more neutral result. If you’re shooting in Camera RAW the adjustment won’t be made to the final image – you can, however, make it yourself using your camera raw pre-processing software.

When photographing a sunset, because you want to capture the gold, red and pink colours of the sunset, it is best to select a daylight sunny setting for your white balance so that the camera does not make any adjustments to the colour. In this situation the camera will record what it sees and you’ll get your sunset not a neutralized version of it!


When capturing sunsets make sure not to use a white balance adjustment or you will lose the colors.

Another creative use for White Balance is to warm an image. If you’re shooting a photo in full sun and you want it to have a warmer look, use the shade setting on your camera when you do so. This applies a slight warming colour to the image much as you might get by adding a warming filter to a lens.


Using a different camera setting you can alter the warmth of an image, the version on the left is cold, the one on the right is warm.

As you become more aware of the quality of the light that you’re photographing in, you will be able to make it work for you and the result will be better and more artistic photographs.

If you’re interested in learning more about white balance, visit this recent post on Understanding the Need to White Balance: http://www.projectwoman.com/2009/09/understanding-need-to-white-balance.html

Helen Bradley

Monday, October 26th, 2009

Freeze the action


Whether you’re taking photos of a football match, motorbike racing or the kids riding their bicycles, you’ll find yourself trying to capture movement. Photographing moving objects can be tricky but there are some simple techniques you can use to make it more likely that your photos will be successful.

Plan your approach
Before you begin shooting find a good place to shoot from. Get to the event early so you have time to look around for a good position to stand. If you have a telephoto lens, a position in the stands at the races or football will let you get close to the action even when you’re far away and you can get good shots over the heads of the crowd. Alternately, get right down to the boundary fence for a different perspective of the action.

Anticipate the action and be ready to shoot it. Point the camera to where you think something will happen and press the camera shutter half down to focus the shot and wait. When the action comes into the frame, press the rest of the way to take the shot. If your camera has a sports mode – it is generally indicated by a running figure – use that. Sports mode reduces the time it takes to capture a shot by increasing the amount of light coming into the camera. The faster the shot is captured, the less the subject moves while the shutter is open and the less blurry they’ll be.

For most sports there are times that can be considered high action – a player about to take a high mark, a goalie trying to save a goal in soccer or horses jumping from the starting gates. Anticipating these events and capturing them can give great results.


15 year old sports photographer Jacinta Oaten used a combination of anticipation, great location, large aperture and fast shutter speed to get the wonderful shots featured in this post.

To blur or not to blur
Blur should not be seen as a bad or undesirable thing. By shooting at a slower speed and allowing the background to be well focused and the subject slightly blurred you can get an impression of action in your shots. To slow your camera down so you can blur the action, choose Landscape mode or, if your camera is manually adjustable, slow the speed down for example to around 1/15 th of a second.

To reduce blur in a shot, use the fastest speed setting of which your camera is capable. If this doesn’t work, follow your moving subject with the camera. Stand still and point towards the subject and start moving the camera to match their movement. Shooting as the camera is moving along with the subject results in the subject being focused and the background blurred. Again, you will have a pleasing sense of movement in your shot.


To capture the action at the rodeo I used burst shooting mode to maximize the chance of getting a good shot.

Your camera’s burst shooting mode is also handy at capturing action. In this you’re your camera takes a series of shots in a short time interval. Instead of having one shot, you now have six or nine taken in very short succession. In some cases these shots are smaller in size than regular shots so, before using this mode, ensure your camera is set to capture at its highest resolution and to store at the lowest compression so you ensure these shots are the best they can be. However, the very speed of capturing the shots makes it more likely you will get a shot you like from those you’ve taken.

Look around you
When shooting action scenes, don’t focus entirely on the action and miss out on the stories that happen behind the scenes. Often people sitting in the crowd will make a good shot, so when someone is about to kick for a goal, turn around from your position on the boundary fence and shoot the crowd’s reactions to the kick. Look for other scenes that are compelling such as the athlete’s reactions at the end of the race or a bored official reading a book with action taking place all around.


Finding a good position to shoot from and anticipating the shot can give some great results.

Know your camera
The high point of a game when your favourite player is about to shoot for goal is not a good time to realise you don’t know how to operate your camera. Before you pack your camera for an event, spend time familiarizing yourself with its settings. Know how to find and use the various camera modes and practice following motion – taking shots of cars driving down the street is a good way to do this. Check your camera’s settings to make sure you’re taking the quality shots you think you are and check that the compression format being used is acceptable. If you’re using a camera with a small number of megapixels (3 or less), buy a big storage card so you can shoot at the highest quality and lowest compression possible.

If you’re using a digital camera, take plenty of shots and delete the ones that didn’t work out later on. Consider any space left on your camera card at the end of the day as being a wasted opportunity to try your new skills.

Helen Bradley

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009

Photographing for eBay and the web

A few years ago the most complex photographs most of us took were photos of the kids birthdays and our own holidays. These days we’re more likely to be taking photographs that in the past would have been the work of a professional photographer. If you have a website or if you sell in online auctions, you’ll have confronted the issue of photographing things so they look their best and present well when displayed on the web.

When capturing images for the web, some of the work can be done in your image editing software but most of it needs to be done in camera. It’s more efficient and more effective to shoot right to begin with rather than have to fix up problems later on.

Location, location, location
Start by finding a good location to shoot in. For smaller objects you can generally shoot indoors on a clutter free tabletop. A sheet of paper taped to the tabletop and which extends up all the way behind the object will provide you with a seamless background the technical term for which is a sweep. This is exactly what a professional photographer will use only their version will be make of heavy plastic and yours will be paper. You can also use a heavy fabric such as upholstery fabric – provided it isn’t crushed or creased. Hang the paper or fabric or tape it into position and sit the object on it.


This statue was photographed in a light place indoors with a sweep made from a sheet o paper taped to the wall.

Check in your digital camera’s LCD screen to make sure that your sweep extends to cover the entire area behind the object and in front of it so you can capture and later crop the image without any surrounding area showing.

Where you are photographing small objects such as for online auctions or where the size of the object is important, include a coin or ruler in the photograph. This way the viewer can ascertain the relative size of the object from the visual clue you have provided.

Image size
For shooting web images, you don’t need to shoot large images because the size of images required for most web images is quite small – anything more than around 1,000 x 1,000 in size will be more than you need. You can configure your camera to shoot small images or resize in your software later on.

Use Macro mode
To shoot small objects, switch your camera into Macro mode which is indicated on the camera by a small flower icon. You use macro mode so you can get the camera close to the object and so it can still focus. If you don’t use the macro setting, chances are that the shot will be out of focus as most cameras cannot focus up close if you use any other setting. Make sure to back off the zoom too – most cameras won’t focus in macro mode with the camera zoomed in.


Using the macro feature on your camera give you a nicely focused area with the rest of the image out of focus.

Get in close
Get in close and fill the viewfinder with the object so you capture as much detail as possible. If you’re using standard household lights you will need to adjust the camera’s white balance setting so that the image doesn’t have a colour cast. The light supplied by household globes is coloured and will colour your images if you don’t correct for it and it’s easier to do this when you’re capturing the image rather than later on. Avoid, where possible, using a flash as the image will be blown out – if you have to use a flash, place something over it so the light goes in another direction and not direct onto your object.

Depth of field
One benefit of the macro feature is that generally captures part of the image in focus and the rest nicely out of focus. For this to be successful make sure that the portion of the image in focus is what you most want to show clearly. To see what will be in focus, press the shutter half way down and watch to see what is in focus, if this isn’t correct, move the camera so that the part of the object you are interested in is in the centre of the viewfinder and press the shutter halfway down. The move the camera to recompose the image and finish by pressing the shutter the remainder of the way.

Lightboxes rock!
If you are doing a lot of small object photography, consider purchasing a light box and some special daylight balanced globes. A small collapsible studio like this will make the task of photographing objects a lot easier – the light will be diffused by the light box, you won’t have to adjust for colour and you can photograph anytime day or night. If you don’t have a light box, take the object outside or place it in a well lit area of your house making sure that the area has a neutral background. If you use the macro feature you can still get a good image with a nicely blurred background.


A light box like this is a great way to capture photos of small objects for the web.

While photographing objects for the web is challenging, armed with the right tools and knowledge of the features of your camera that are there to help you, you can get some great results.

Helen Bradley

Friday, October 16th, 2009

Letting the kids lose with the camera



Let loose with a camera at the fair, Brandi was captivated by the little girls and shot some wonderful hair styles and this child being given a ride on Dad’s shoulders.

Kids see the world in a different way to the way we see it. They’re interested in different things and when you put a camera into their hands you end up with images you may not have expected. However, kids and expensive cameras aren’t always a good match so what can you do to protect your investment and, at the same time, encourage artistic exploration?

A few years ago, the camera most of us owned cost less than $100 and was a film camera. Nowadays, most of us have digital cameras that are far more expensive and not something you’ll willingly hand over to a ten year old. However, most kids who are around late primary level at school are well capable of handling a camera and it’s worth taking the time to get them started shooting, particularly as you won’t have to shell out for photo processing – although you might find yourself investing in a second camera!


Brandi captured this colourful photo of her sister who played up for the camera by modelling a feather scarf.

When starting out, I like to spend a little time with a child before I hand over my expensive cameras to them. I cover the basics and the first thing is to insist they use the wrist strap or neck strap all the time – this is my one “not negotiable” rule, and it generally saves the camera from being accidentally dropped.


When he was ten years old, Ben captured this wonderful sunset on holiday with his parents in Hawaii.

I show them how to take a photo, how to preview it and how to zoom the camera. I then stand with them as they take a photo or two of something that doesn’t move like a building or flower. We check the result in the view finder and then talk about how the photo might be taken differently.


Casey had to lie down on the brick path to capture this shot looking up into the flowers and grape vines.

For example, I may encourage them to take the same shot from a different angle or position and to move in closer or further out and see how they like the results. I encourage them to get down low, even to lie on the ground to get an interesting perspective.


Brandi caught her own shadow in this fun photo.


Buried deep in a large cactus, Casey found this old and pitted leaf which caught her interest.

The message here is that the first shot isn’t always the best and to look at what they’re shooting critically before they put the camera to their eye. It also encourages them to be more mobile when shooting and frees them to sit, squat or lie down to get a more interesting angle without feeling silly for doing so.


I love this portrait that Casey shot of me, posing for her was fun and we had lots of laughs.

Kids learn well when they can see the results of what they’ve done and digital cameras allow them to practice taking multiple shots of the same object and to get immediate feedback.

After they’ve taken a few shots, they’re generally ready to go it alone. Later on, either that day or another day, I’ll show them how to take photos from different angles, such as from underneath a plant, how to pose a friend to take their photo and how to shoot their own reflections.


Young Casey found that she could capture her own reflection in a metal sphere for this captivating self portrait.


A mirror at a photo booth at the local fair allowed Brandi to capture this candid photo of her sister.

Typically, when teaching kids how to use a camera, I’ll concentrate on making sure they’re comfortable with operating the camera and start them off thinking about what they’re shooting and how to frame a shot. Then I step back and let them capture what their eyes see. That’s about the time they start to surprise me!


The uneven petals on this flower caught Casey’s eye as she wandered the local park.

When you share your camera with a child you’re entering their world. It’s a wonderful opportunity to see the world through their eyes and to see what captures their attention and imagination.

Helen Bradley

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