Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

Better Travel Photography #1 – take the road less traveled

Do your travel photographs look just like everyone else’s?

If you wonder why you bothered lugging your digital SLR half way around the world and didn’t just settle for buying postcards, it’s time to revisit the way you photograph your travels. Here is part 1 in my new series of Better Travel Photography – a guide to getting great travel photos that don’t look like everyone else’s..

Today’s tip: Move out of the way
If you’re tempted to stand alongside other photographers to capture photos of popular tourist destinations then it’s time to move away.

The really unique photographs are those that you take when you look at something through your eyes rather than following what everyone else is shooting.

Look for things that are different and interesting to you in the place you are visiting..

For example, when photographing fountains look for something other than the big picture.

Get in close to the fountain to capture close-up detail or wait for something to happen.

It might be a child splashing in the fountain, a couple sharing a kiss or it might be something as unusual as a bird perched on a statue.

Even in the most popular tourist places there are great and fun and unusual things to capture.

Helen Bradley

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

Create A Three Up Photoshop Template

Recently LisaMarie from LisaMarieDiasDesigns.com asked me to look into creating a tutorial for her newsletter subscribers to show how to create a template with a 3 pixel frame around it and openings for three 2″x2″ or 3″x3″ images.

The process of designing a solution is a little complex so I’ve done two things. First of all, I’m giving you the templates as PSD files that you can use to create your own design, but secondly I’m going to show you how to do it yourself. So, if you want to know how to create a reusable design like this or one that can be used with different size photos, here’s how:

I’ll step you through creating a solution for displaying three 3″x3″ images at 72 dpi with a 3 pixel frame around each of them.

Step 1
It’s a good idea to sketch the design on paper and work out the dimensions before you start. For three 3″x3″ inch images at 72 dpi the starting image needs to be 660 x 222 pixels and it will look like this.

Step 2
In Photoshop, choose File > New and create an image 660 pixels wide and 222 pixels high with a resolution of 72 pixels per inch.

Set the background to be white and click Ok.

Step 3
To add the gridlines, choose View > New Guide and create a vertical guide at 3 pixels. Repeat and create a second vertical guide at 222 pixels. Repeat and add a third vertical guide at 441 pixels and a fourth one at 657 pixels.

Add two horizontal guides, one at 3 pixels and one at 219 pixels.

Step 4
Now choose View > Snap To and select None.

Repeat and choose View > Snap To and select Guides.

Make sure that the View > Snap option in the menu is checked.

Now selections and images will snap to the guides that you have created.

Step 5
Add a new layer by choosing Layer > New > Layer and click Ok.

Click the Rectangular Marquee tool and from the tool options area select Fixed Size and set the Width to 216 pixels and the Height to 216 pixels.

Click on the image where the two guides intersect in the top left corner of the image. The selection will snap to these guides.

Make sure that white is selected as your foreground color and press Alt + Backspace on the PC (Option + Delete on the Mac) to fill the selection with white.

Switch to black as your foreground color, press Ctrl + D (Command + D on the Mac) to deselect the selection and, with the Paint Bucket tool, click somewhere in the layer not where you added the white, to fill the remainder of the layer with black.

Step 6
Add a new layer to the document by choosing Layer > New > Layer. Hide the previous layer if desired.

Select the Rectangular Marquee tool and click at the intersection of the second vertical guide and the top guide. Your selection should appear in the middle of the image. Fill this with white. Deselect the selection and then fill the surrounds of that layer with black.

Step 7
Repeat once more, this time clicking at the intersection of the third vertical guide and the first horizontal guide.

Again, fill the selection with white and then fill the remaining portion of the layer with black.

Your layers palette should look as this one does.

Step 8
Now open the images to use. You should size these to a minimum of 3″ by 3″ but the project will work just as well if they are a little bigger.

In fact, you may want to make your images bigger than this so that you can see how the masking process will ensure that your images do not have to cropped to the exact size for this design to work.

For example, to size an image to around 3.5 x 5 inches at 72 dpi, open the image, choose Image > Image Size. Enable the Constrain Proportions and Resample Image checkboxes and select Bicubic Sharper as the mode for resampling the image. Enter 72 pixels per inch as the resolution and type either the width or height to use such as 5″ – Photoshop will automatically calculate the other measurement. Click Ok to resize the image.

Step 9
Open the first of the resized images and drag its background layer into the composite image that you’re working on.

Repeat for the other two images. It doesn’t matter what the document looks like at this stage.

Step 10
Select one of the layers that has an image on it and use the Move tool to drag it roughly into position where you want it to appear in the final presentation.

Do this for the second layer and for the third.

Ignore for the moment that some of the images are overlapped and extend over the borders.

Step 11
Select the first of the image layers and click the Create a New Group button at the foot of the layers palette. Drag and drop the image layer onto the new group so that it is inset underneath it. Click the group layer name and click the Add Layer Mask button at the foot of the layers palette.

Step 12
Click on the layer mask thumbnail so that it is selected.

Choose Image > Apply Image and from the layer dropdown list, select the layer in the layers palette that has the white square where this image should be in the design. Click Ok.

This applies a layer mask to this layer masking it to that small square size.

Step 13
Select the second image to work with and click the Create a New Group icon at the bottom of the layers palette.

Drag and drop the image layer onto the new group so that it is inset underneath it. Click the group layer name and click the Add Layer Mask button at the foot of the layers palette.

Click on the layer mask thumbnail so that it is selected.

Choose Image > Apply Image and from the layer dropdown list, select the layer in the layers palette that has the white square where this image should be in the design. Click Ok.

This applies a layer mask to this layer masking it to that small square size.

Step 14
Select the final image to work with and click the Create a New Group icon at the bottom of the layers palette.

Drag and drop the image layer onto the new group so that it is inset underneath it. Click the group layer name and click the Add Layer Mask button at the foot of the layers palette.

Click on the layer mask thumbnail so that it is selected.

Choose Image > Apply Image and from the layer dropdown list, select the layer in the layers palette that has the white square where this image should be in the design. Click Ok.

This applies a layer mask to this layer masking it to that small square size.

Step 15
You can now disable or delete the three layers which contain the black and white designs as they are only used to create the masks.

You can also remove the gridlines by choosing View > Clear Guides.

This is your final design.

Step 16
Any of the images in the design can be adjusted by clicking on the image layer, click the Move tool and then drag the image around inside that layer.

Provided the image is larger than 3″ x 3″ you can move it so the piece of the image you want to feature appears in the desired position. The mask ensure the image does not extend over the borders.

Step 17
You can also replace the images – this is how you will use the template in future.

For example, open another image to use and resize it as you did the earlier images.

Drag and drop the image into your file as a new layer. Drag the layer into the group for the position it will appear in the design and remove the image that currently occupies that position. As you can see, all you need do is to position and resize your images; none of the rest of the layout needs to be recreated.

Once you understand the basics of creating this design you can mark out and create a display image that will hold 2 x 2 images and even 2 x 3 or other varieties of sizes.

To make it simple for you, here are two PSD file downloads for the 2 x 2 and the 3 x 3 design that you can use yourselves:

2x2layout.psd

3x3layout.psd

Helen Bradley

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

Smarter sharpening with the High Pass filter


In previous posts I have introduced the basics of sharpening in Photoshop and I also looked at a way to spot sharpen an image in Photoshop Elements using faux layer masks. In this post I want to show you the benefits of using high pass sharpening in Photoshop as an alternative to using the Unsharp mask.

The Unsharp mask has historically been the sharpening tool that most Photoshop users start out using. There are, however, different and better tools to use and one of these is the High Pass filter. One reason for this is that the Unsharp mask operates on the actual image pixels and it makes changes to those pixels. The sharpening process that makes use of the High Pass filter doesn’t operate on the original image so it does not destroy the image pixels – this is particularly useful if you’re using Photoshop CS2 or earlier which doesn’t offer the Smart Objects for Filters option for applying the Unsharp mask filter.

In addition, instead of sharpening the entire image as the Unsharp Mask does, using this High Pass filter process limits sharpening to the edges in the image which is where the most value can be obtained from sharpening the image.

Step 1
To see the process at work, open an image and duplicate the background layer of the image. If your image has multiple layers, add a new layer at the top of the layer stack, click it to select it and press Ctrl + Alt + Shift + E (Command + Option + Shift + E on the Mac) to fill the top layer with a flattened version of the image – without affecting the other layers.

Step 2
In the Layers palette set the blend mode of the new top layer to Overlay. This will let you see the sharpening results in place on the image in the next step.

Step 3
With the topmost layer still selected, choose Filter > Other > High Pass. This filter has one slider to adjust the Radius value. Drag the slider until you see a pretty much gray image in the preview window with the only detail being around the edges of objects in the image. If you can see color in the preview image then the radius is set too high. Typically a Radius value of well under 10 pixels should be sufficient – we used 2. Click Ok.

Step 4
The image is now sharpened – check the original against the sharpened version by clicking the Layer Visibility Icon for the top layer on and off to compare the result.

To finish the effect, adjust the Opacity of the top layer to 0 and then move it back up stopping when you have a good sharpening result. The ideal Opacity will depend on your personal preference.

If desired you can use blend modes other than Overlay, for example Soft Light and Hard Light can be equally as effective depending on the result that you are looking for.

Tip
When you are sharpening an image, adjust the image to the way you want it to look if you’re planning to display the image on the web. If you’re printing it you can (and should), sharpen more aggressively.

Tip

If you are using Photoshop CS3 or CS4, before you apply the High Pass filter to the top layer of the image, convert it to a Smart Object by selecting the layer and choose Filter > Convert for Smart Filters. Then apply the High Pass filter to the new smart object in the same way as I have outlined above. When you apply a filter to a Smart Object you can return later on to edit it – simply double click the filter name in the layer palette and the filter dialog opens allowing you to change the Radius value.

If you’re new to sharpening, check out these recent posts:

Sharpening 101 – Understanding the basics of Sharpening

Sharpening in Lightroom 2

Photoshop Elements, Spot sharpening with a faux layer mask

Helen Bradley

Friday, August 7th, 2009

Cool Photo Apps #3 Create a life poster


Not all good applications come in big shinny boxes like Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. Many cool photo apps are available on the web and they’re free.

These apps do things that other programs don’t. They are fun to use and practical. In this Cool Photo Apps series I’ll show you some of these.

Popularized by the Mac and its iLife software, life posters are a collage of images arranged in a grid layout. Life posters look best when you use square images. On the PC you can create a life poster using the tools built into Picasa which you can download from http://picasa.google.com.

Here’s how to do it:

Step 1
Start with a new album by selecting File > New Album and give the album a name like Life Poster.

Step 2
Add the photos to the album that you want to use for the life poster. The order in which the images appear in the album are the order in which they will be arranged into your life poster so the first images appear across the top line of the poster and the next series of images will appear through the next row etc.. If you predetermine how big your grid will be, such as 4 x 4 images or 5 x 5 images you can determine which photos will be next to which other photos.

Step 3
When you create the poster, Picasa will automatically crop the images to a square format. If there are images that you would prefer to crop yourself, double click the image to open it and crop it to a square shape before beginning.

Step 4
To create your life poster, right click the album name and choose Select all pictures. Click the Collage button at the bottom of the tray area and choose Picture Grid from the Type list. From the location dropdown list choose a folder in which to save the finished collage image. Check the preview and, if you’re happy with the result, click Create to create the poster.

Step 5
You’ll find the image ready for printing in the folder you selected. Of course, having created your poster, you could convert it to a wall size poster ready for downloading and printing. Here’s a blog post that will show you how to do it: Cool Photo Apps #2 big huge photo prints

Helen Bradley

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

Managing Public Holidays in Outlook


When is Memorial Day in the US or Anzac Day in Australia?

If you’re unsure, luckily for you, Outlook isn’t.

Most national holidays are stored in Outlook – you just need to find them and add them to your calendar.

Here’s how:

Choose Tools > Options > Preferences tab ad click the Calendar Options button.

Click the Add Holidays button and from the list choose the country (or countries) you want the holidays for and click Ok.

Wait while Outlook adds these details to your calendar and click Ok twice to exit.

The holidays will appear under the date in most Calendar views.

Helen Bradley

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

Outlook 2007- Save attachments

When you delete an Outlook email you’ll also delete any attachments which are included in it.

You won’t be warned you’re about to do this either so you can find yourself having lost important data if you haven’t saved it.

To save files attached to emails, right click the attachment and choose Save As from the menu and choose a place to save it to.

A good rule of thumb is to do this every time you get an attachment so you won’t be caught out in future. Even saving all attachments to a special attachments folder will save you losing them.

If you need to remind yourself to do this, you can create a rule which checks for emails with attachments and flags them for follow up. This will remind you that you need to save the attachments or at least look at them to see if you need to do this.

Helen Bradley

Monday, August 3rd, 2009

How do you Vignette?

Adding a vignette to an image involves adding a subtle (or not so subtle) edge effect to it. A popular vignette technique involves darkening the edges of your image – it gives the image a slight border which helps keep the viewer’s eye in the photo. This is an effect which has been popular for years and which was is a feature of some classic film cameras such as the Holga.

Nowadays many photographers and digital artists use vignettes as a way to finish their images. There are lots of ways to add a vignette to an image and here are some of them. I’ve included methods that work with Lightroom, Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. The latter process will work with most photo editing programs.

Lightroom 2

To add a vignette in Lightroom, move to the Develop module and choose the Vignette options. Set the Post Crop Amount value in a negative value to darken the edges. Set the Roundness to a low value such as -70 to get a rectangular vignette and set the Feather to around 50 so it is soft but not too soft.

Photoshop #1

A simple way to add a vignette in Photoshop is to use the Lens Correction filter. Choose Filter > Distort > Lens Correction and adjust the Vignette amount to the Left to a negative value and the Midpoint to the left to bring the vignette into the image more.

Photoshop #2

Another way to add a vignette in Photoshop is to use a Layer style. This has some benefits and one is that the method works on just about any size image and it’s simple to do once you have the Style created.

Make the background layer a regular layer by double clicking it and click Ok. Select the Add Layer Style icon at the foot of the Layer palette and choose Inner Glow. Set the Color to Black, set the blend mode to Darken or Multiply and adjust the Size so you can see the edge. You can save this as a style preset and you can then record the process of adding the style to the layer as an action so that you have a one click vignette solution.

Almost any photo-editing software

If your software supports layers and layer opacity then this method should work just fine in most photo editing programs. I’ve used Photoshop Elements and you should check your program’s help if you are unsure how to perform these tasks in your software.

Add a new layer using Layer > New > Layer and use the Rectangular Marquee to select around the inside border of this layer leaving a small margin. Choose Select > Inverse to invert your selection so the border area is selected. Now use the Paint Bucket to fill the area with black or dark brown. Choose Select > Deselect.

Choose Filter > Blur >Gaussian Blur and use a high radius value to blur the edge and soften it. Adjust the Layer Opacity to blend this edge into the image underneath and, if desired, set the Blend Mode to Darken or Multiply.

Helen Bradley

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

Cool Photo Apps #2 big huge photo prints


Not all good applications come in big shinny boxes like Photoshop and Photoshop Elements. Many cool photo apps are available on the web and they’re free.

These apps do things that other programs don’t. They are fun to use and practical. In this Cool Photo Apps series I’ll show you some of these.

For resizing images to very large size, there are a couple of handy tools you can use. One of these is Rasterbator which you can find at http://homokaasu.org/rasterbator/. You can use this tool online or you can download it to your computer and use it from there. One benefit of downloading is that you’re not limited in the size of the starter image you use.

Rasterbator upsizes your image to anything from regular poster size to a gigantic 25 meters in size.

Here’s how to use the online version:

Step 1
Click Rasterbate Online and select to upload an image from your computer or use an image from the web. There is a maximum upload size of 1 MB. Once the file is uploaded, you can crop the image although you’re really better off doing this before you upload it.

Step 2
Select the Size option and select the final print size for your image. Each of the grid squares is one sheet of paper and you can add more sheets or reduce the number of sheets by clicking the More Sheets or Few Sheets buttons. The finished size of the project appears below the image so you can juggle the size to fit your needs.

Be sure to select the paper size as Letter and use either a vertical or horizontal orientation as required. It’s important to select your page size here as it will be too late once you’ve created the PDF file. Click Next to continue.

Step 3
The program will warn you how many sheets of paper the project will require and, if you’re happy to continue, click the Continue button – you’re not actually printing yet, just confirming you want a document that big created for you.

Step 4
Set the options such as drawing a border around the rasterbated area which will give you cutting lines that you can use later on to cut out the images before assembling the panel. Select the dot size to use from the list or use the default size. You can choose to create the image in black and white, some other colour and white or colour.

Step 5
Click Rasterbate when you are done and wait as the PDF file is created for you.

Step 6
Download and save the pdf file and then print, cut and hang and enjoy your masterpiece at your leisure.

If you liked this post, you’re sure to like the other posts in the series:

Cool Photo Apps#1: The Warholizer

Helen Bradley

Friday, July 31st, 2009

Create Silhouettes in Photoshop

One feature you’ll see a lot in advertising is silhouetted images generally of people or recognisable buildings. Here’s how to capture and create a silhouette image:

To capture a photo to use as a silhouette place the subject so they are backlit. You can do this easily by positioning your subject between your camera and the sun.

You’ll need an area that is clear behind the subject so that you can cut the shape from the photo later on. You can do this on the beach in summer or find a location where you can get down low enough to shoot from and so you capture some clear sky behind the subject.

The cleaner the background the easier it will be to isolate the subject.
I shot my image from ground level looking upwards late in the afternoon with my model in shadow but with plenty of clear sky behind her.

To create the silhouette
Step 1
Open a duplicate of your image and double click the background layer to convert it to a regular layer.

Make a selection around your subject using your favourite selection tool such as the Magnetic Lasso or Quick Selection tool.

Choose Select > Invert to invert the selection and press Delete to remove it.
Step 2
Tidy up the selection by removing any remaining background or add missing elements by selecting, copying and pasting pieces in from elsewhere in the image.

Don’t worry about matching colours – just get the outline right.

Choose Layer > Merge Layers to merge the layers. Here I copied and pasted one leg to create the one I was missing.

Step 3
Control + Click on the layer that contains the shape that will become your silhouette.

Set the foreground colour to black and press Alt + Backspace to fill the silhouette shape with black. Add the extra details to finish your image.

In a future post I’ll explain how to create the sunburst shape.

Helen Bradley

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

Outlook 2007 – Find a Contact Address

When you need to visit an Outlook contact and when you need directions to their office, you can find them yourself using Outlook’s map option.

Select Contacts and open the contact’s card. Click in the Address area so you are viewing the address that you want to find directions for. On the Ribbon, locate the Contact tab and in the Communicate group click the Map option. Your browser will open to display a map of the location you selected.

Helen Bradley